HomeMy WebLinkAboutOld Town Walking Tour 1976Old Town Walking Tour
1976
1976 - OLDTOWN TAPE TOUR
About the same time Washington was the President of the US the colonization of the
village of Kenai was being carried out by a foreign power intent upon total subjugation of
the native people and the plunder of all resources. These Russians went so far as to
poison unruly natives and hold the wives of all native trappers hostage until quotas of raw
furs were filled. It seemed this area could not stand the pressures, but because of it's
strategic location, the village out lived its plunderers.
Considering all of their other pillagings, it is interesting to consider that the Russians did
not exploit the salmon run in the Kenai River. The Russian traders thought they had
cleaned out the country but Kenai has remained a center for traffic on Cook Inlet and the
connecting Kenai River.
Kenai is the second oldest permanent settlement in Alaska, the oldest being Kodiak. In
1791 Fort St. Nicholas was established by the Russians. It was occupied until the
purchase of Alaska by the US Gov't in 1867. The pulse of the Russian activity was right
here in the location of what is now called "Old Kenai."
Many small native villages and other Russian forts were established on Cook Inlet, but
because of the wealth and convenience of the Kenai River this is where it all happened.
As you listen and look I hope you can experience some of the excitement that must have
been, in years gone by. Please realize that many of the following sites are private
property. Respect them as such, listen to the commentary as you remain on the roadside
and do not enter or destroy the property.
When you leave the cabin parking lot turn right on Overland Dr., stop at the first old
house on the right.
There are several old homes on this tour route. It need not be mentioned that most are
in poor condition. Homes such as these have withstood the worst weather conditions and
until recently, had no valued heritage. You are privileged to view them before they have
a "modern old look."
Helen Jones House
The house built on the right was built about around 1900 or 1910. Until the middle 1950's
it was the nicest house in town. It always belonged to the owners of the general store
who were viewed as the richest people in town. It is still identified as Helen Jones' home.
This home was built of fur piling taken from fish traps in the river after the fishing season.
In later years the outside was shingled. The purpose of the shingles was extra insulation.
(remember, in those days there was no insulation). Chinking the logs with moss was the
way to keep the cold out. Continue down this road to the curve, pause near the Kenai
National Moose Range sign.
Fish and Game Buildinp
This area has been the property of the US Gov't since 1867. You will notice the first
house on the right is built with the significant design of the early 1900's. The small
narrow windows, always two-story, and peaked roof to help the snow slide. This was the
location of the Kenai experiment station, begun in 1899 and closed in 1908. The station
of 26 acres included less than a dozen Galloway cattle. The buildings amounted to this
home, a blacksmith shop, a woodshed and barn which were located across the street.
This experiment station had a hand dug well which all the natives used for drinking water.
The station was closed in 1908 and all equipment and livestock were transferred to
Kodiak when it was determined Kenai was not a promising location for agricultural
development. This is the headquarters of the Kenai National Moose Range. The Range
was set aside in 1941 by President Roosevelt for the purpose of protecting the natural
breeding and feeding range of the giant moose. Covering a large portion of the western
part of the Kenai Peninsula, the Kenai National Moose Range is slightly over 90 miles
long and varies from 20 to 50 miles wide. It contains 1,730,000 acres. We hope you
take some time to relax and enjoy the moose range. Early morning or late evening are
the best times to observe wildlife. Further interesting information is available here or in
the cabin information center.
George Miller Home
The tiny log cabin directly across the street was the childhood home of George Miller,
Chief of the Kenai Natives. George lived here with his aged mother until moving to
Wildwood. The cabin has been moved into the Fort Kenai complex. Move forward just
to the next building.
'Kenai Power Building (across from station 4)
This building housed the first Kenai power company in 1950. Many residents bought
stock in the venture, but the mainstay was Frank Rowley and his wife Vera. In this small
frame building, Frank, who was a wizard at blending fish trap wire and copper wire,
maintained the old diesel generating plant. Frank and his family lived in the tiny building
to the rear of the plant. He heated his home with steam from the power plant. Electricity
was a milestone for Kenai residents. It meant much more than the change from kerosene
lanterns to electric lights. It meant freezing moose and fish for storage and having
electric headbolt heaters rather than draining the radiator and bringing in the battery every
night. This building is where the power came from until 1963, when the Kenai Power
Corporation was sold to the City of Kenai. Now down to the corner of Mission. Turn right
into the parking area of Fort Kenai.
Fort Kenai
Fort Kenai was erected in 1967 during the Alaska centennial year. This building and the
entire complex represents the original Fort Kenai. We urge you to take a few minutes to
go upstairs to visit the museum. You are also welcome to browse through the Fort Kenai
complex in the rear, but first listen to the beginning.
The Army/Navy journal of November 16, 1867 utilizes the full front page to describe the
ceremony of transferring Alaska from Russia to US ownership, as Russian America, or
Alaska, to be so christened. Now that we have decided to invest national money in the
country and to improve it to our purposes, we shall make of it something far more
valuable than it was before. Battery F, Second Artillery, at Fort Vancouver, Washington
territory, was ordered to establish a post in Cook Inlet Alaska, to be called Fort Kenai, on
May 2, 1868. This Battery F was the sole American presence in the Kenai area. Very
little is recorded regarding military presence. They remained only until September, 1870,
when the entire troops were called to put down indian uprisings in Idaho, Washington,
and Oregon territories. The US was still recovering from the Civil War and those
territories were close to home. Kenai was but a name in a far wilderness. With Russian
authority gone and American leaving, the village was probably left in about its lowest ebb.
Recorded population in 1880 was 44 persons. When the military left they gave complete
authority of buildings and possessions to an American named James Wilson. There are
descendants of this James Wilson in Kenai today.
At the location of this particular building was the building used as the Russian school.
Because of the influence of the Russian Orthodox church teaching and speaking of the
Russian language, continued until 1918 with children going half day to the American
school and half to instructions by the priest. The building referred to as the Russian
school was quite complex, with dormers on the second story. The building was torn down
in 1960 having stood for almost 100 years and having been built without the use of a
single nail.
The Fort Kenai building houses the museum hosted by the Kenai Historical Society. This
museum contains many historical items on loan from local residents and is well worth
some of your time. To the rear of the building are log cabins and a stockade fence
creating an aura of the original Fort Kenai. The' buildings are all hand made. The cabin
nearest the fort was built by three Scandinavian craftsmen, meticulous in their work.
They used only wooden pegs for joining and carved each log with an ads(?). The cabin
was so tight it was necessary to provide cross ventilation with the use of holes in the logs
and plugs to close the windy side. The taller cabin on the right was built of log pilings
retrieved from fish traps; the building having been put together on the beach as the logs
came ashore, then it was dismantled and carried up the bank to be erected at another
location. This was the home of Salt House John, one of many colorful local characters
Walk around the buildings, visit the museum. Afterwards this iape tour will continue witl~
the parish house.
Rectory
Next to the fort complex is the parish house, by the Orthodox church. This home
provided adequate convenience for the busy priest, who in the early days, did a great
deal more than religious services. He also used a portion of this home for classrooms.
This home was built in 1886, although it has been modernized somewhat in the interior.
In this house is a "galenka"(?), derived from the European Russia heating system, which
is a five foot diameter brick chimney, consisting of an opening for the wood fire that can
be completely closed off and then an opening on the chimney on the second floor to allow
the bedrooms to be heated at night. This galenka is sealed off entirely now, but
preserved within the building. Across the street is the Russian Orthodox church. Its true
name is the Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary. This church is listed in the Federal
Registry as a national historical landmark. The establishment of the Russian Orthodox
religion began shortly after the building of Fort St. Nicholas. The first priest of the
Orthodox church arrived in 1795. By the spring of 1796 Father Juvenil reported to his
superior in Russia that he had baptized all of the local inhabitants and had left the area.
For many, many years the area was visited by a priest only every two years until 1844
when a permanent priest came. Father Ergamen Nicholai continued his labors in Kenai
for 20 years. His parish responsibility extended north as far as Knik near what is now
known as Anchorage; south to the tip of the Kenai Peninsula and east as far as Valdez.
This priest was devoted to his followers and never returned to Russia, but remained in
Alaska until his death. Father Nicholai built the first Holy Assumption church in 1846.
This was the place of worship for 50 years. The church now standing was built after a
decision was reached that the old church seemed beyond repair. The logs of the old
church were used in the Russian schoolhouse. Many of the icons in this church came
from the former church. This church has been the base of worship since before the turn
of the century.
The Reverend Paul Shadura came to Kenai in 1905, and remained for 47 years. He
upheld, with positive control, the faith of the Russian Orthodox during the over throw of
the mother church in Russia by the communists. This church is alive with tradition and
symbolism. The parishioners today include descendants of Father Shadura and Father
Ivanoff. If you are interested in a tour of the church, check at the museum for scheduled
times, remembering that it is a place of personal worship, and although it is historical
landmark, it is not a museum.
Across the winding street from the church and to the right is the shrine, identified by the
blue onion top. It is necessary to walk through the grass if you wish to photograph this
ages old building. The shrine, a chapel monument to Father Nicholai was erected over
his grave in 1906 - 1910. Buried beside him is Macara Ivanoff and other church workers.
It is said Father Nicholai's remains are to be interned and sent to Russia where he will
be elevated to saint hood. He was a remarkable missionary and loved by the natives.
His diary is now in the Library of Congress, manuscript division.
Jettie Peterson
Continue down the narrow side road to the edge of the bluff. Notice the home on the
right in the quaint complex which was built in 1898. This home is a log building, made,
again, of hand hewn logs and chinked with moss and wooden pegs. On the outside are
the now familiar shingles. The addition on the front was added in the late 50's. Notice
the old tin shed.
Around 1880 a revolutionary method of canning salmon began in the Cook Inlet. Tin was
shipped in on sailing ships. Cans were made and the processing of canning salmon
began. In 1890 the ship Korea, was wrecked south of what is now known as Clam
Gulch.. This ship carried the summer supply of tin for the cans. Much of the tin came
ashore on the beaches and the Kenai people used it for roofing and even covering shed
buildings. The tin of those days, 1890, must have been of a much higher quality than we
have now.
In the location of this complex was a brick factory around 1850, operated by the Russians
and the natives. There seems to be sketchy accounts of this brick factory. However, it
is known that at that period there were over 1,000 people, a population that wouldn't be
matched again for 100 years. The only trace of this factory are a few bricks found near
some of the old building sites. Occupying this complex now are two delightful ladies in
their 80's, sisters, who have spent their entire life time on or near the Kenai Peninsula.
They have homesteaded and taught in pioneer schoolhouses for a combined total of over
50 years. Their desire to preserve the history of Kenai will not allow these buildings to
be torn down. Please respect their property. Merely observe from the road so as not to
disturb them.
A view from this location on the bluff is worth more than a thousand words. Captain
Vancouver, the famous English explorer who followed Captain Cook, thus reported on his
stop at Fort Saint Nicholas in 1794. We believe this was the high bank he climbed after
receiving a two cannon salute and viewing the Russian flag. He complained of the
garbage thrown over the bank near the trail going down to the river. It took 150 years
to break this Russian influence. The distance across Cook Inlet as you are viewing it is
approximately 50 miles. Kaligan Island, often visible, is 18 miles away. The view of the
Chignik mountains of the Alaska Range is beautiful, assuming clear weather. Mt.
Redoubt, at 10,197 ft. is the tall mountain on the right. Mt. Illiamna, 10,016 ft. on the left.
Both of these mountains have been recently designated as natural national land marks.
Both are listed as active volcanos. The beach below is mostly sand and lovely for
strolling. There are some agates and jasper rocks to be found. If you have a desire to
stop and walk, there is a path and a bridge, known as Minx Crossing for your
convenience.
The tides in Cook Inlet (on the Anchorage side) are the second highest in the world. Only
the Bay of Fundi in Novascotia has higher. On the days of the highest tides you can
almost see the water come and go. There is a large sand bar off the mouth of the Kenai
River which is a plague for the fishing boats. Storms in Cook Inlet come up quickly and
with force. Sailors believe there is a definite connection between the tides, moon
conditions, and storms. Ice flow in cold winters is a shipping hazard and the river often
freezes completely across. Continuing on, turn left by the modern apartments and back
to the intersection of Mission and Overland. Then, turn right on Mission. Stop when you
reach the Toyon Apartments sign.
Marshall's Office and School (where Toyon Villa is)
On this location was the building site of the first American school and the only US
Marshall's office and jail. The jail and Marshall's home was one in the same. The yard
around the jail was closed in with a four foot high fence. The average jail resident was
there because of relatively minor crimes, such as assault & battery, petty thievery, and
moose poaching. The territorial government allowed a small sum per day for feeding
inmates of the jail. This was supplemented by the guard and spring time inmates planting
a large crop of potatoes. Late summer inmates would put a net in the river and catch
salmon which were cleaned and salted down. The fall residents would harvest the
potatoes. These activates kept the prisoners busy but they still had time to socialize.
During the day it was a common site to see them leaning on the top of the rail of the
fence, visiting with people as they passed by. The standing rule, however, was to be in
the jail by 8:00 p.m. or you were locked out for the night. The first US Marshall was
appointed in 1923. In 1954 the Marshall's office was discontinued and the territorial
police took over the responsibility of law and order. Another colorful era gone.
The long wooden building on the left was the first drugstore on the Kenai. The
pharmacist was here only a short time though, he committed suicide in the drugstore in
1962. The people then went back to the usual practice of writing to Anchorage for
prescriptions.
Helen Jones (Kenai Commercial Store)
Across Cook Avenue, continue down on Mission. On the left is an old building with lots
of colorful memories. This was first the Alaska Commercial Company, the original
Northern Commercial store. There are records back to 1897. Later it became the Kenai
Commercial store. This general store was the place for everything, from conversation to
necessary items that got people through the winter and summer. Goods charged during
the winter were paid for later on after the fishing season. Helen Jones, the last owner
of this store, had literally everything in stock. Her favorite slogan was "we've got it if you
can find it." She was the closest the community had to a doctor and was often called in
the middle of the night to deliver a baby or patch up a drunk. Helen was loved by
everyone, and died in 1973.
At the end of Main Street, near the informational sign, stop and again enjoy the view.
The mouth of the Kenai River is beautiful no matter what the tide conditions. Beluga
whales can be seen as they playfully swim up the river with the tide, then return before
getting high centered on the sand bar. The Belugas eat small fish, fingerlings of the
salmon and herring. They can be seen almost every day from May to September.
During the salmon fishing season, hundreds of fishing boats come and go in this river
The site is spectacular because they all leave at about the same time on the tide. There
is no way to predict this, it depends on tide, fishing location and weather.
Notice the canneries up the river. On the left side of the river is a bright orange building.
This is known as the Northwestern Cannery, opened in 1910 and closed during the
depression years. There is a story of several men dissatisfied with only one cannery,
who made plans to pool their money and build their own. They started the foundation in
tho summor and sont oho man outsido on tho last ship in tho fall with tho monoy to
purchase the lumber and the equipment. By the next summer it became apparent that
the gentleman in question had absconded with the cash. The foundation was then sold
to Libby McNeil and Libby, who operated the cannery until it was sold to Columbia Ward.
This is the cannery directly across the river. Notice how the river bends.
A section of the old Northwest Cannery is now called the Port of Kenai, with docking
facilities able to come into the Kenai River.(?) Downstream. from the canneries there are
several small docks and salteries, where salmon were cleaned and salted down in barrels
then shipped out by sailing ships, which anchored off the mouth of the river.
The headwaters of the Kenai River lie within six miles of Prince William Sound at Seward.
Miller House (Hermansen Homestead)
Notice the neat little complex across the street on the bluff. The building was built before
1900 and it was the first frame building in Kenai. Imagine the prestige, walls not made
of logs. This has, during it's lifetime, been a rooming houSe, post office, fountain lunch,
first medical clinic, grocery store, a private home and now again, a rooming house.
During it's lifetime, the bluff in front has been washed away by many feet. There
originally was a road out in front and a salt house out over the edge of the bank. The
erosion of the bluff is caused by large tides in the fall of the year together with high south
winds which cause an undermining process. Drive to the corner of Cook.
Looking left you can see an older rather large log building on the right side of the street.
This building was originally located on the bluff in front of the jailhouse. It was called the
Interlocked Moose Horn Club. In the early 1900's, big game hunting on the Kenai was
very good. In 1908 the federal government established a law whereby a non-resident
hunter on the Kenai Peninsula could only hunt with a registered guide. Because travel
was almost entirely by boat Kenai became the center for outfitting and a base for these
guides. The Interlocked Moose Horn Club was the hub of this attraction. The building
7
has been in this location for the past 30 years. It was, at one time, a theater when films
came to Kenai, and later a mission church. Turn right on Cook and continue to the area
near the Kenai Fine Arts Center.
Library
The location of this building was the site of the last Kenai territorial school, in use until
1954 as a school building. The old school building was torn down and this building built
by volunteers who formed the volunteer fire department. These volunteer firemen were
extremely dedicated and were proud of their responsibility. They remained here even
though the equipment had outgrown the building until 1972 when the new public safety
building was complete. The Kenai Fine Arts building (as it is now termed) is used for art
shows, work shops and many other activities of the artists in the community. The Kenai
Community Library was founded and worked out of the old territorial school from 1949
until the building was torn down. Then it moved to the building to the left, which also
housed the Kenai Civic League and later the city offices. This building was built in 1954 -
1955 with money and combined efforts of the entire community. The group known as the
Kenai Civic League was a forerunner of city management. The construction of the new
enlarged modern Kenai Community Library, located near the Kenai Courthouse, is
expected to be completed during the summer of 1976. The small yellow building to the
back of the Kenai Fine Arts Center is the Kenai Health Center. The Public Health Nurse
operates out of this building and services many of the Peninsula villages, including
Tyonek,
Kenai Joe's
Drive to the bend in the road. John Consel, also known as Kenai Joe, was born in 1896
in Poland, and died in Kenai in 1970 at the age of 74. He lived in Alaska 55 years.
Almost of them in Kenai. The buildings in this location were all a part of Kenai Joes
roadhouse. The first building was built in 1915 and used as a dance hall and the first
liquor store for Kenai. It burned one night when a gas lantern exploded. In 1924, Joe
built the two story log building on the right and operated it for many years as the .only
roadhouse for miles around. The small white house was built as a home for his family
and used as the kitchen and bakery for the roadhouse. He provided everyone who did
not care to do their own baking with homemade bread. Joe was a shrewd business man
who never took the time to learn to read and write english with the exception of his name.
Turning the corner, follow Broadway which parallels the Kenai Spur Highway. Turn left
on the gravel access road, the original Kenai Spur, back towards the information center.
If the weather is clear and bright, Mt. Redoubt should be a majestic splendor behind
Moose Meat Johns cabin. On the right, near the intersection of Main Street and Kenai
Spur, notice the blue star memorial plaque. This plaque is maintained by the Kenai
Garden Club (which is no longer meeting) throughout the summer months.
On both sides of the Kenai Spur Highway, you can view the modern Kenai. In the interim
of growing up, this city needed room to spread for business buildings, highways and
airports. It's fun to drive through the past and then it's nice to know you are part of 1976.
Thank you for taking the time to relive our heritage. We hope you enjoyed the tour.
WALKING TOUR
Welcome to Old Town Kenai! The walk you are about to go on will take
about forty five minutes. Old Town holds many stories. Before European
ships arrived, the Kenai area was dotted with small settlements of Dena'ina,
Athabaskin Indians who made homes along the now famous Kenai River as
well as the peninSula's outlying reaches. In the late 1700's Kenai was one of
several Russian Alaskan outposts during the fur trade era. That same period
saw both England and Spain trying to lay claims here. Those countries also
made voyages into Cook Inlet, England under the helm of Captain James
Cook (hence COok Inlet) and George Vancouver, Spain under Ignacio Artega
and Bodega y Quadra. Later, Salvador Fidalgo would make another voyage
for Spain. England desperately saught a Northwest Passage; this would have
given her a valuable trade route in furthering an already established world
empire. The Spamsh, having come up from Mexico and California, seemed to
be looking for religious converts while checking up on the rival Russians. The
late 1700's then saw America still in the midst of establishing itself. However,
within a hundred years it would defeat the British in the Revolutionary War,
lay claim to the Louisiana Purchase, acquire California, and obtain Alaska.
This rapid expansion has been referred to as "Manifest Destiny", the belief
that our country was meant to spread over all of North America.
Early on, Russia gained the advantage in utilizing Alaska's resources. Here at
Old Town, Russian fur traders built Fort St. Nicholas near the bluff about
where the Russian Orthodox Church still stands; the year was 1791. In 1797,
a significant event in Northwest history occurred with the Battle of Kenai.
Russian fur traders had alienated the Dena'ina Indians after treating them
..... badly; approximately a hundred people were killed. This conflict, coupled
with a decline in the sea otter population saw the Russians abandon Kenai as
a commercial venture. They looked for other oppommities in southeast
Alaska; where they met a similar fate. Tlingit Indians in Sitka and Yakutat
proved to be equally hostile. One of the Russia's aims in southeast Alaska
was to establish a base for agriculture however the wet climate there is not
conducive to farming so Fort Ross, California was chosen instead. Given the
bigger picture, Russia may have been able to keep its foothold in the New
World had they been able to feed themselves by staying in the southcentral
region. Perhaps they could have taken advantage of the Matanuska Valley
just north of here as it is the only decent faxm land in Alaska. Despite such
setbacks Russian Orthodoxy had gained a foothold. In 1864, Father Nikolai, a
missionary stationed at Kenai started the first school. The Russian Orthodox
Church is prominent in Kenai's history because it provided both education and
spiritual guidence. Father Nikolai is buried here at the Chapel of St. Nicholas,
named in his honor.
In 1867 Alaska was purchased by the United States; America had won the
race for Alaska's economic resources although at the time it was considered
"Seward's Folly" in jest of then Secretary of State William H. Seward. Under
federal policy, Alaska like most of the west, had become "Indian Country"
and Old Town was the site of Fort Kenay from 1869 to 1871. Indians proved
friendly; the fort was abandoned and the buildings placed under the care of a
local resident named Wilson. The Army made a deal that for 160 C-Rations
Mr. Wilson would take care of the facility until the they returned although
they never did come back. The Wilsons later became one of the larger Kenai
area families. From 1871 to about 1957 the village of Kenai grew slowly into
a town. Due to epidemics, the need for a large labor force in the fishing
industry, and easy credit, the Dena'ina Indian people slowly made their way
from outlying villages to live here and still reside in the community.
Commercial fishing and some fur trapping became staple elements in
fledgling Kenai. Canneries came in at the mm of the 20th Century and
American schools began to appear as well. The'impact of the gold rashes in
Alaska brought even more people. Kenai grew most dramatically with the
advent of homesteading after Word War II and boomed when oil was
discovered at Swanson River in 1957. Kenai is now a community of roughly
7500.
Enjoy!
Entries marked with an asterisk (*) do not have walking tour signs.
1) Moosemeat John's Cabin - Though not on the walking tour map you can
see this building just across the lot here at the Visitor's Center. It was given to
the Kenai Chamber of Commerce in 1974 by Standard Oil Company and
represents Kenai's early homesteading era. (circa 1946) The Cabin and
homestead of John Hedberg, otherwise known as "Moosemeat John" was the
site chosen by Chewon for their refinery and docking facility in Nikiski.
Standard Oil Manager George Day was very active in this community and
helped in moving the cabin to Kenai. With the assistance of many volunteers
the cabin was made usable for the Kenai Chamber as well as the first Visitor's
Center July 4, 1976. Moosemeat John was a colorful character, well known
throughout Cook Inlet. Many stories have been told about him. In order to
feed his 13 children Hedberg hunted moose at any time regardless of the
season and often shared the wealth with neighbors. One time while hunting in
very cold weather it grew dark; Moosemeat then wrapped the hide around
himself skin side out to stay warm. In the morning he had to be cut out of the
frozen moosehide! He is remembered as being a very strong man with a loud
voice and sociable nature.
2) (1935-1957) Moose Range Headquarters - From 1898 to 1908 this
property was the Alaska Agricultural Expehmental Station consisting of
twenty six acres tied into federal government programs for agricultt~e. It was
set up with the Hatch Act of 1887 a nationwide program to curb land
destruction due to poor farming techniques. The Hatch Act provided federal
fimding for agricul~al experiment stations to be located in most states, In
1897 federal agents from the U.S. Department of Agrculture came to Alaska
and chose Kenai as one of six Alaskan communities to have such a station.
Because rapid settlement was anticipated, these headquarters were set up to
determine what crops and livestock would do well in this region. A residence,
barn, woodshed, blacksmith shop, and implement shed were built.
Experiments lead to the conclusion that Kenai did not show promise for
fanning. The equipment and livestock were transferred to Kodiak.
In 1935 the Alaska Fish and Game Commission used the property until the
late 1940's and prior to WWlI part of the property was used as an airstrip.
In 1941 the U.S. Government set aside 1,730, 000 acres as protected moose
habitat changing the name from Temtorial Fish and Game Commission
Headquarters to Kenai National Moose Range. The WWII quonset hut with
the frame addition was provided in the late 1940's as housing for the Assistant
Kenai Moose Range director. In 1980 after the passage of the Alaska
National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) the KNMR was
enlarged by 2 million acres with the Refuge Headquarters moving to
Soldoma. The property is currently owned by the Kenai Native Association.
3) (1925) Arness Cabin - 4) (1918-25) Three Scandinavians' Cabin - 5)
(1918-25) Cabin # 3 - 6) (1910) Miller Cabin - Appearance is the major
factor with these three cabins as they represent a style of building from the
beginning era in Kenai's initial "village" growth (1898-1925). They have all
been moved to this present locale and knowledge of their origins is scanty.
The Amess cabin was built by Emil Berg, a well known registered guide and
trapper. Berg made his home in the Tustamena Lake area south of Kenai. He
built three cabins in Kenai with this one being the only surviving structure.
The hand hewn comers and joinery reflect a form of construction camed over
from his home counrty of Finland. Try to picture the buildings in Old Town
Kenai as a village over hundred years ago. They looked much like the ones
you see here.
In the 1920's Kenai was described by one observer as "about as modem as a
rural American town of the 1850's. In 1934 twenW-ei~t houses held 131
t~eot~le. The breakdown is as follows' 18 wood frame buildings, 7 cabins, 3
tents. For roofing material thirteen had shingles and twelve were tarpaper
with the number of occupants averaging between four and six.
Census figures for 1900 list 156 residentS; comprising this figure were 88
Russian and American residents with 68 Kenaitze people. Records show that
a large portion emigrated from Scandinavia. By 1929 census figures listed
286 residents in Kenai. The major portion of the economy came from
commercial fishing beginning with the Northern Packing Company in 1888.
This cannery was joined by the Pacific Packing Company in 1897 and Libby
McNeill & Libby in 1912. An important by-product of canneries was salvage
materials. After the fish traps were dismantled, residents collected the timber
planking and built home with it.
7) (1869) Fort Kenay - The building is a commemorative effort constructed
in 1967 by the Bi-centennial Commission celebrating Alaska's purchase in
1867. It began as a museum and commumty hall symbolizing transition from
Russian to American ownership. Fort Kenay is a replica of the original
Russian schoolhouse. Repairs were needed so in 1967 the Kenai Bi-
Centennial Commission received a grant to tear it down and erect this log
construction with the same basic design.
Although the original stockade and buildings within it are long since gone,
this location holds more significance than the existing structure. Historically,
the Russian Redoubt Nikolaevsk (1791), America's Fort Kenay (1869-70),
and the Russian Orthodox Church School (1900), all shared this same piece
of ground. The Russians built ungamsoned forts called redoubts during their
time in Alaska; Nikolaevsk was one of five built on the Kenai Peninsula. Such
places strong out from St. Michael (Yukon River mouth/Norton Sound in
Western Alaska), along the Aleutian Chain, to Kodiak, then going as far south
as Sitka and Wrangell.
A brick factory was also set up here in 1841; the bricks were used mainly for
chimneys, ovens, and foundations. By 1865 thirty thousand bricks a year
were being produced. Fragments of this red brick are still found in the soil of
this area. ~
Upon its purchase for $7,200,000 in 1867, Alaska was designated as "Indian
Country". Given that designation, four officers and their families along with
116 enlisted men were assigned here to Fort Kenay. The fort had been
converted from barracks left by Russian fur traders. In Russian times the
outpost went by the name of Nikolaevsk Redoubt, having been built by the
Lebedev-Lastochkin Company on 1791. The U.S military occupation lasted
just sixteen months from April of 1869 to September of 1870. The Indians
had proven friendly and Battery F Second U.S. Artillery was transferred to
fight Indian wars in Idaho.
It was not until 1907 with the advent of the first federal school that the U.S.
Govemment vigorously pursued settlement. Prior to that time salmon
canneries, various commercial interests, and the Russian Orthodox Church
were very influential. The Russian school had been here since 1864 teaching
classes in catechism, Russian langUage, Church Slavonic, arithmetic, and
music.
8) (1881) Parish House Rectory - Built in 1881, this building is believed to
be the oldest building on the Kenai Peninsula and has continued to be used as
a residence since that time. Through the efforts of its Parishoners and Alaska
Senator Ted Stevens, federal money has been provided for restoration of this
s~'uc~e.
* (1894) Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary Russian Orthodox Church
Constructed in 1894, this building is one of the oldest standing Orthodox
churches in Alaska. It is also a National Historic Landmark. Church services
are still regularly held as there is an active Russsian Orthodox community in
Kenai.
* (1906) The Chapel of St. Nicholas The Chapel of St. Nicholas was built as
a tribute to Igumen (Abbot) Nikolai, first missionary in the Kenai area, his
assistant Markary Ivanov, and another monk whose name is not recorded.
Among his many contributions to residents of the area, Father Nikolai was
responsible for bringing the smallpox vaccine to the Kenai Peninsula. With
the help of Makary Ivanov, he vaccinated many people while fighting this
deadly disease. The smallpox epidemic of 1838 had killed half the Dena'ina
Indian population on the Kenai Peninsula.
According to custom, priests are buried in the church yard; therefore this
hand-hewn log chapel was constructed over the site of the first Russian
church established by Father Nikolai which he built on the site of the original
Russian Fort St. Nicholas. On December 19, St. Nicholas Day, a memorial
dedication or "moleiben" is held to remember this beloved priest and his
reader.
9) (1918) Oskoikof/Dolchok Cabin - This cabin remains in its original
location. It has changed owners a number of times with a number of slight
modifications such as the shed roof addition, exterior stairs, and second story
window; the donner which faces south may have been added as well. The
house also is one of three homes in this district which represents a theme of
Kenaitze Subsistance (circa 1900-41) meaning that either the builder or
owner was Kenaitze Indian. The Oskolkof/Dolchok Cabin is a good
representative of what the buildings in early Kenai looked like. Because the
additions have not significantly altered the property's basic historic
appearance and the design and workmanship of its origin are still intact, this
house is eligible for the National Register.of Historic Places. It retains its
historic feeling since no incompatible construction is adjacent to it.
10) (1912) Wilson House - Kenai residents Paul Wilson Sr. and wife
Katherine bought this house and raised their family here in the early 1900's.
His son Paul Jr. and his wife Elizabeth also raised their family of eight
children here. Like the Oskolkof/Dolchok Cabin this home is representative
of a time when Kenai though still considerd a village, was growing slowly.
Also like the Oskolkof/Cabin it is in the same location as originally built and
retains its valuable setting. In other words, no adjacent construction has taken
place that would make it incompatible with its historic value. This house is
eligible for the National Register of Historic Places.
11) (1950) Steve King House - This house was built in the 1950's by Steve
King on his North Kenai homestead. He relocated here in the early 1960's. It
is thematic with the growth period which followed World War II. It is now a
rental property.
12) (1940's) The Jahrig Building - This building is noteworthy in that it is
the only commercial property in the Kenai Townsite Historic District dating
from the Post World War II Community Growth Period. The property
originated as a Northwest Cannery property and was moved here bom its
original location at the first bend of the Kenai River. It has since seen varied
uses as a theater and Kenai's first pharmacy. It became a bakery and coffee
shop in the late 1950's and early 60's and at one time was also a dance hall. It
has been added on to as well as remodeled, reshaped and otherwise altered. It
probably saw its beginnings as simple one story frame building with gable
roof and shiplap siding. Like many others, it is a building which has been
moved here testifying to the cost and scarcity of materials in an earlier time.
Before the advent of building supply stores and highways, it was easier to
salvage materials or move a structure in its entirety rather than build from
scratch.
13) (1948) Kenai Commercial Building- Also associated with Kenai' post
World War II growth, this property was remodeled in 1985 and except for its
concrete foundation has been altered considerably. The very first store on this
location burned down in the 1940's. Another building was barged up from
Kasilof in 1948 and, like the Jahrig building, it was thought to be an old
cannery building (Alaska Packers Cannery). It was first owned by the
Stephan family and then sold to Helen and Cecil Jones. Being a nurse and
store owner, Helen Jones was well known and loved by everyone, and often
provided the only medical assistance in town. The store had a slogan - "buy
on credit, pay after fishing" The Kenai Commercial Company operated until
1966 when it became the Northern Commercial Co. After three years at this
location Northern Commercial moved to another piece of property. The
Jahrig family bought the building and lived here until 1980. It remained
unoccupied until 1985 when it was bought by Robert and Janice Cowan who
remodeled it making the law office you now see.
14) (1935) Showalter House - The only remaining house in Kenai which was
built in the 1930s. It was built by local carpenter John Berg whose wife Helen
was the local postmistress. The post office was operated from their home.
The house was sold to Ward Showalter in 1947. Showalter was a
commercial fisherman. It has remained in the family and is now owned by his
son James Showalter also a commercial fisherman.
15) (1946) Kenai Bible Church - The first building was a log structure
housing missionaries upstairs with a small chapel below the residence.
Additions were made later. Bordering the bluff and mouth of the Kenai River,
the lighted cross was a gift from the Allan Petersen family in memory of their
only son and brother who was lost in Skilak Lake in 1955. It is a comforting
guide to many fisherman entering the river after a day out on the Cook Inlet
Fishing grounds. Though neither located in the historic district, nor
compatible in size or design of other historic the buildings, this church was
the first Protestant church in Kenai.
16) (1916) Hermansen Miller House- Built by Martin Updahl out of rough
planking from Libby McNeil cannery, this stmctt~e is considered to be the
oldest frame house in Kenai. Of Norwegian descent, Updahl changed his
name to Hermansen not long after coming to Kenai. He mamed Fedora
Peterson and raised a family there until 1939. A shed and nmning water were
added in 1925. Mr. Hermansen was a jack-of-all-trades who helped build
many of Kenai's homes. In 1950 this building was sold to a man named
Lemon who operated a small grocery store which soon became Kay's Diner.
Fred and Louisa Miller purchased the house in 1951, where they reined out
rooms upstairs and had an ice cream parlor downstairs. Concurremly, the
Millers operated the local post office and allowed the Catholic church to hold
mass in the ice cream parlor until 1956. Shortly thereafter it served as
Kenai's first hospital/clinic. Today is serves as a bed and breakfast
establishment.
*) (1922) Dolchok/Juliussen Cabin -Originally constructed by Mike
Dolchok on Overland Avenue across from U.S. Fish and Wildlife buildings,
formerly the Moose Range Headquarters. The Dolchok family home was
sold to Dick Wilson in the late 1940s who then sold it to the Juliussens.
Julius Juliussen moved it to its present location and raised his family here
until the 1950s. The property's appearance in 1925 was similar to the way it
looks today; however, the large addition on the right did not exist nor the
large multi-pane window.
17) (1954) Civic League Building- Built in 1954 with materials donated by
the J.H. Pomeroy Construction Company and volunteer labor, this property
served as a community center, serving the following functions: public library,
library, Homemaker's Club, courthouse, various church services, a
schoolroom and evening meetings such as the Civic League (forerunner of
today's city management). With Kenai's incorporation in 1950, it provided
city office space, storage for the first fire truck, and housed the public health
nurse. Today a preschool operates in this building. It is an example of a
municipal building constructed after World War II and the growth period
which ensued as a result.
18) (1955) Kenai Firehall Jail - This site was the location of Kenai's
Temtorial School from 1925 to 1950. The main floor had three classrooms
for grades 1 through 8 mixed with a few high school students. Upstairs in the
school were two small apamnents for teachers. The classrooms were heated
by a wood furnace in the basement with each apartment having a coal stove.
This coal had to be carded up two flights of stairs daily. The north wind
would blow right through the top of the building!
Like the Civic League Building, the Firehall was built using volunteer labor in
1955. Two years later the jail was added to the rear of the building. After the
Kenai Police and Fire Departments moved to their new facility/n 1973, this
building was leased for one dollar per year to the Kenai Arts & Humanities
Council. In 1980 it was renovated into a workshop for artists.
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
The information in this walking tour is the product of many people and
organizations. The following groups and People have made it possible to
produce:
City of Kenai Townsite Historic District Board -- Produced walking tour
Dr. Alan Boraas -- Professor of Anthropology, Kenai Pemnsula College
Kenai Rotary Club -- Designed and ere_cted_si~s
Kenai Visitors and Convention ~,,[¢, ~ma-- unaerwrote cost of printing
Kenaitze Indian Tribe IRA-- Donated time and information
Preservation North-- Produced Kenai Townsite Historic District Survey
James and Peggy Amess -- Homesteaders, critique
Alan Boraas -- Anthropologist, Historic Bd. supplied information, critique
Sylvia Elliott -- Preservationist, supplied informaion from Townsite Survey
Dorothy Gray -- Chairman Kenai Historic Board, critique
Michael Huhndorf-- Vice Chair Kenai Historic Board, wrote and edited tour
Veronica Kessler -- Kenai Visitors Center Exhibits Manager, critique
William Kluge -- Architect, Rotary Club, Kenai Historic Board Member
Alexandra Lindgren -- Kenaitze Tribe Cultural Heritage Director, critique
Donna Lane Preservationist, supplied information from Townsite Survey
K.M. Tanaka-- Critique
Kathleen Tarr -- Director Kenai Visitors & Convention Center, critique
*** The information in this tour is subject to revision as more contributions
from the communuity are added. The intention of this booklet is not to be
final but to create a core of information in which to work from.